Sun Moon Lake, a destination famed for its poetic allure, often makes it onto the must-visit lists of travelers to Taiwan.


While there's no denying the beauty of Sun Moon Lake, our experience was marred by what we least enjoy: an abundance of tour buses.


At many spots around the lake, you might find yourself lost in a sea of tourists, armed with selfie sticks and donned in uniform baseball caps. A significant disappointment for us was the closure of the renowned cycle track, a major draw for our visit.


1. What to Do in Sun Moon Lake


Ci’en Pagoda


Ci’en Pagoda stands as a highlight of our trip to Sun Moon Lake. Perched atop one of the nearby peaks, it offers panoramic views that captivate from many vantage points around the lake. If you're riding a scooter, you can drive up to the car park, sparing some steps. From there, it’s an approximate 570-step climb to the top—more like foot placements than actual stairs, making the ascent surprisingly brisk and less taxing than anticipated.


Sunrise at Zhaowu Pier


While some may recommend Shuishe Pier for sunrise, we found Zhaowu Pier superior for early morning views. Just a ten-minute walk from Shuishe Pier, Zhaowu offers picturesque tranquility with significantly fewer visitors, perfect for capturing a breathtaking sunrise.


Wen Wu Temple


Wen Wu Temple was less than ideal, hindered by the closure of parts of the bike path, a detail not disclosed when renting bikes.


Street Food in Itathao


Taiwanese street food comes highly recommended, though personal tastes may vary. In Itathao, located about 10 kilometers from the main area near Shuishe Pier, you can form your own opinion. Of the options available, the scallion pancake stood out, though it may not exceed expectations.


Cycling Around Sun Moon Lake


We anticipated that cycling would be the highlight of our visit to Sun Moon Lake, but unfortunately, we were met with several closures along the bike path. After renting our bikes, we discovered that the entire eastern section of the cycle track, beginning from Wen Wu Temple onwards, was closed due to private property restrictions.



Planning Your Visit to Sun Moon Lake


Choosing Your Accommodation


When visiting Sun Moon Lake, you have two main options for accommodations: Shuishe Pier and Itathao. Shuishe Pier is the hub for restaurants and amenities, while Itathao offers a quieter stay with less tourist traffic and access to local street food.


Dining at Sun Moon Lake


Expect the food around Sun Moon Lake to be on the pricier side and somewhat disappointing. We sampled local favorites and street food but often ended up settling for basic dishes like plain noodles or fried rice. Many restaurants seem to exploit the limited dining options to charge high prices for simple meals—$15 USD for fried cabbage, for example.


Best Time to Visit


Weekends at Sun Moon Lake can be overwhelming due to large crowds and inflated hotel prices. For a more pleasant experience with fewer people and better rates, consider visiting during the week.


Getting There


For public transport to Sun Moon Lake, start by heading to Taichung, accessible via frequent high-speed trains from Taipei. From there, take the Nantou Bus from the High-Speed Train Station to Shuishe Pier, a journey of about 1 hour and 15 minutes. The bus trip includes several stops once you reach Puli. Driving might be the most convenient option, thanks to Taiwan's excellent road conditions and considerate drivers.


Accommodation Details


Stayed at the Mi Ren Hotel, which offered the best value we could find during our visit. While not cheap at $60 USD per night, it provided comfortable, albeit old-fashioned, accommodations centrally located in Sun Moon Lake. The room was small with a wet room bathroom that tends to flood—a common feature in Taiwan. Despite the price, it was a reasonable option for those on a budget.